Inari Tee Dress by Named Patterns

I'm just going to go ahead and throw this out there: I'm not a dress person. Here's why:

1. I have three kids four and under.
2. I am nursing an infant.
3. I am still self-conscious about my legs.
4. And my pasty-white skin.

But whatever, I made a dress anyway. It's the Inari Tee Dress by Named Patterns.

That was my first mistake. My second mistake was cutting the wrong size - a US 4. On the pattern website, only the finished garment measurements were listed (not the body measurements). I assumed that was all that was given, so I chose a size I thought would work and went with it. Only later when I opened the instructions to get the seam allowance did I realize that the body measurements WERE included, just not in the initial pattern information. Those put me in about a US 6 or 8.

So as you can see, there are some fitting issues. The fabric is kind of bunching up above my chest and bum, whereas it's supposed to be loose and drapey. But speaking of the fabric - isn't it lovely? I purchased it at Mood in Manhattan last summer. My husband said it looks like someone took x-ray films and cut them up. It's a bit heavier than shirting but not as heavy as twill. It has a little bit of stretch, too.

My only issue with the pattern is that the neck facing wasn't offset properly and therefore wasn't the same width all the way around the neck. If I made this again, I'd draft my own facing. Otherwise, the pattern was good. The cocoon shape is interesting and even flattering - but only in the right size with the proper amount of ease.

I think this dress has a future calling as a shirt. You know, when my nursing boobs have calmed down a little. Then it might be a great addition to my wardrobe.

What do you think? Have you tried the cocoon shape? Are you a mom who longs to wear dresses but...well...can't?

Quilted Cargo Duffle by Noodlehead in Ticking Stripe

Making structured bags is something in which I've only recently become interested. I don't really carry a purse, and my diaper bag is a super-functional Land's End bag that I purchased when Harper was a baby about four years ago. Other than that, I'm kind of a grab-whatever-I-can-find-and-go (even if it's a grocery bag) kind of girl. I've realized though that life with kids is much easier when I have dedicated bags for various things - a pool bag, a park bag, a splash pad bag, etc. So this Noodlehead Cargo Duffle (FREE pattern on Robert Kaufman's website) is a perfect addition to my (almost-nonexistent) entourage of bags! (See it here on Anna's blog.)

I collected photos of French ticking stripe bags on Pinterest for weeks before starting on this project, and I couldn't be happier with how it turned out. The navy stripes and quilting make for such a classic, understated look. I think my tendency for accessory projects is to use flashier, more colorful fabrics, but I've been trying to temper that with things that work better with my wardrobe and lifestyle (just as I've been doing with my handmade garments).

I made a few modifications to the pattern. First, I added an exposed zipper pocket to one side of the bag instead of the cargo pockets included in the original pattern. Next, I put a velcro pocket on the other side for a changing pad, tablet, book or magazine. Then, I added a shoulder strap and reversed one of the zipper sliders so they would meet in the middle and pull apart to the ends of the bag.

I also wanted it to have a bit of structure, so I straight-line quilted the outer fabric to Pellon's relatively new 77 Flex Foam.

This bag pattern is pretty basic and versatile, so it's super easy to customize it however you want to meet your needs!

I also created a simple lining out of chambray fabric from my stash. I simply used the quilting cotton measurements from the instructions and left the top (where the zipper would go on the outer portion of the bag) open. I used a zipper foot to machine sew the lining into place around the top opening which probably wasn't the most elegant of solutions, but time to hand sew diaper bags is not on my current list of possessions. I had also planned to get a little more strategic with the lining by creating pockets and dividers, but alas, time...(or lack thereof).

As you can see, the bag is the perfect size for fitting in a couple kids' worth of diapers, changes of clothes, wipes, toys, etc.

BUT, it doesn't look too "diaper-baggy" so I can use it later for all sorts of things. It would be a great weekender bag, overnight bag, gym bag...you name it.

The only thing that concerns me a little is how dirty those straps are going to get! But all I have to do is remove the shoulder strap and throw this bag in the wash. Everything I used is machine- or hand-washable. Another solution would be to sew some leather pieces around the straps where they're usually held.

What do you think? Has this bag been on your sewing radar? Have you tried the new Pellon 77 Flex Foam? Do you love quilting all the things as much as I do?!

Fancy Tiger Sailor Top in Double Gauze

(First things first: My Soleil dress pattern is on the Friday Fiver at Crafterhours today! Head there to check it out and find out how to get the pattern for just $5 TODAY, Friday, August 14 ONLY!) :) (And one other thing! You can still enter to win a copy of Angela Wolf's Angel Jeans pattern here...and get 50% off her Craftsy course, too! Hurry, only a couple days left!)

One thing I love about blogging my sewing projects is that I get to see how they look naturally instead of how I imagine them in my head or see them in the mirror. (I use the term "naturally" loosely since these are completely posed selfies shot with a remote by yours truly.) I actually wasn't crazy about this Fancy Tiger Sailor Top when I first sewed it, and I had mostly forgotten about it since it was on display at Modern Domestic advertising a class I taught there a few months back. So when I got an email from the owner to come pick it up, I was a little "meh" about it.

I mean...it's a cute top. It's been a popular pattern. But just looking at it on the hanger? It felt a little frumpy to me. Too oversized. Not my style.

So I was fully prepared to photograph and blog it anyway and basically say that I wasn't crazy about the style.

BUT THEN...

These photos happened! And I now love this top! And the fabric! And the color! As my daughter would say, "Everything is awesome!"

(Funny side note: Harper was in the shower when I darted out of the house to take these photos. I shouted to her that I was leaving and good night and I love you and all that jazz, and she responded with, "Mommy, are you going to take some selfies?!" YES, Harper, yes I am!)

I made this top in a medium because I didn't want it to be too tight across the shoulders/under the arms, and I think it's perfect. I do, however, prefer my tops to be on the looser side. Someone who wants a more fitted look might want to err on the small side or grade down at the hem since it is quite full around the hips. For your pattern-size-decision reference, I am about 36" in the bust at the moment, and I am 5'6" tall.

I used the paper pattern, and I found it to be professionally drafted, well illustrated and easy-to-follow. I used French seams at the side and armholes and stitched the yoke in-the-ditch to finish. In retrospect, I wish I had taken the time to hand sew it. Sometimes, my ditch stitching is spot-on, and other times, not-so-much. This was one of those not-so-much times, but I'm cool with that. Finished is better than perfect, ya know? And the fact is that this would still be languishing in the WIP pile if I'd decided to hand stitch it.

The only odd thing about this top is that the yoke, despite being the same width all the way around in the pattern, seems to narrow at the shoulders when sewn. You can see this effect in the photo below. I'm guessing that's because that curve is on-the-bias? I recommend interfacing the yoke with a lightweight fusible to prevent such distortion - especially if using a fabric like double gauze or challis that tends to get a bit distorted even in the best of circumstances.

The fabric is a lovely Japanese double gauze for which I unfortunately couldn't find an online source. (If you have one, please leave it in the comments so I can add it!) I honestly don't love sewing garments with double gauze because of its tendency to wrinkle, but this one seems slightly more crisp than some others I've worked with. It still has fabulous drape though and is heavenly against the skin.

I'm so happy I snapped these shots and got to see this top in a different light. It's a perfect addition to my daily momiform, and I'm sure it will get a ton of wear now and with a cardigan in the fall/winter.

What do you think? Have you ever written off a garment as "not your style" but then changed your mind?

Oh, and if you're interested in sewing a Sailor Top for yourself but need a little guidance along the way, I recommend you check out this course on CreativeBug (affiliate link):

Jeans: Pilcro Superscript by Anthropologie (NOT an affiliate link) Shoes: swedish hasbeens Lacy (affiliate link) :)