Ahhhh! Fall sewing is in full effect. The Linden Sweatshirt by Grainline Studio is one of my most-sewn garments - I have five in current rotation with another two on my cutting table. This quilted jersey one with added side vents is definitely one of my favorites! But before I get into this post, I want to send a big THANK YOU to everyone who commented on my video post and Instagram about body issues last week. I read each and every comment, and they all meant the world to me. I have been slowly working through responding to them, but some other things going on behind-the-scenes have kept me away from social media/email a bit. I love all you guys so much and appreciate your support! xoxo
The fabric is AWESOME and was purchased from Raspberry Creek Fabrics. I think you guys may have liked my Instagram photos so much that it sold out though! I can't find it on their site anymore. I have a couple other pieces of quilted jersey in charcoal and dark blue that I purchased at Mood Fabrics last summer. I have big fall/winter sewing plans for those, too. I do have a word of caution to you guys though - these fabrics seem to pill a little bit if you wash them as normal. I suggest washing them on gentle and letting them air-dry. In fact, I'm starting to do this with all my hand-made knits as I notice that rayons, especially, seem to pill after a few washes. This is true of ready-to-wear, too. Perhaps I should do a post on caring for handmade garments?
The only thing I would change about all the quilted jersey in my stash is that they are all polyester or nylon against the skin. Does anyone have a source for double-faced, quilted jersey? Because that would pretty much make my life complete. I have seen it at the Mood Manhattan store, but only in baby pink/baby blue. Womp, womp.
One thing a lot of you have been saying in my reader survey is that you want to see more details! SO. I was careful to take some closeups this time so you can see this sweatshirt in all its fabulousness.
On a random side note: I'm not sure if my white balance is off or if my hair really is that brassy. Rest assured that I am taking steps to remedy it (alllll the purple shampoo), but you might be seeing this loveliness until I can find the time/$$ to get to the salon. Let's all hope the purple goo and some fancy Photoshop filters do the trick on the next few sets of photos.
To do the side vent, I simply lengthened the front and back pattern pieces by quite a bit - maybe about 10"? I'm not positive as I didn't measure. I just went straight down and made sure I added enough that I could try it on and cut it shorter to the exact length I wanted after taking a peek in the mirror. I also added 3/8" seam allowance to the side seams so I could serge them separately and press them open to create the side vent.
I apologize that I don't have a more detailed tutorial on how to do this, but it's not so hard to figure out. You just serge each side independently and mark where you want the vent to start. Sew the side seams together with a 5/8" seam allowance, and be sure to back stitch a couple times at the point where you marked. Press the seam open including the section below where you backstitched.
Next, you have to turn up the bottom hem. Open up the section of the side seam that you just pressed open, and fold the bottom hem up with right sides together (I did a 1" hem). Sew it in place parallel to the side seam. Then, flip it to the right side and press. Using a continuous line of stitching, sew all the way around the bottom hem and the side vents. I also went back and did a reinforcement tack at the top of the vent. On my Janome 8900 QCP, this was a stitch width of 2 and a length of .4. I made it about 3/8" long.
I also opted to leave off the sleeve bands and instead just lengthen the pattern pieces by about 3". I tried it on and pinned it where I wanted to get the finished length just right.
I made this in a size 6 as I've made all my Grainline Lindens, but I'm thinking maybe I should do some size 4s. This size is perfect for the boxy, oversized look I was going for, but perhaps a 4 would be more flattering in certain fabrics. I have a few sewing friends who give me grief for always making things too big. Perhaps they are right. I am 5'6", and in these photos, I am about 35"-30"-38" if that helps you to pick a size to make. This fabric doesn't have a ton of stretch, and there's still plenty of room.
What do you think? Have you been bitten by the fall/winter sewing bug just yet? Do you love quilted jersey as much as I do? I can't wait to see what you guys are sewing for the cooler weather!
