Merchant & Mills Camber Dress

How do I love this dress? Let me count the ways. 

1. It is an amazing linen-rayon blend from Bolt Fabric Boutique here in Portland.
2. It fits great. 
3. I love the look.
4. The pattern/construction were fabulous. 

So yes. It is the Merchant & Mills Camber Dress, and I am in LOVE!

I had read rave reviews of Merchant & Mills patterns before, but I don't know...something about the packaging and branding made me feel like the patterns were a bit frumpy and old-fashioned. But on a recent visit to Bolt, this Camber Set piqued my interest. I started to look at the dress as a silhouette instead of how it was presented on the envelope, and my vision unfolded. 

I wanted something modern, comfortable, flattering and streamlined. I wanted it to be easy and quick to sew but not without enough detail to keep my interest. 

And that is exactly what I got. 

I used my measurements and made a size 10. From looking at other bloggers' photos online, I think some people must have gone down a size as mine is less fitted than others. I like this look though, so I'm glad I stuck with it. It's very comfortable and will also have ample room for my chest after my surgery next month. I also decided to shorten the dress by 15cm after trying it on. I like the longer look, but this shorter length was more what I had in mind for this fabric. 

I love the exposed bias facing on the front of the neckline, and the yoke (shown above) adds a nice, unique touch. The fit is superb, and I can't wait to make a tee version, too. And who knows...I might just have to invest in some more Merchant & Mills patterns - this one is just that good!

Have you sewn Merchant & Mills? What do you think? 

Modified Simplicity 1377 Shorts from Upcycled Linen

Recently I was on a fact-finding mission at Nordstrom. That's what I call it when I'm actually shopping for shoes but telling my husband that I'm just looking for sewing inspiration. In reality, it's a bit of both. :P In this case, I spotted some great, casual shorts in the Madewell section that I knew I could easily copy(ish). 

The style is nothing new - short, athletic-style shorts with an elastic waist, curved hem and slash pockets. I considered a couple patterns that are very similar to this, but ultimately, I decided to go with Simplicity 1377 which I had previously muslined but never worked on beyond that initial fitting. I figured that all I'd have to do was straighten the pockets (the original line is curved) and add the curve to the hem. 

I made a size 12 which corresponded to my measurements. The back rise might be a bit short for anyone with a curvier bum - but I do not have much going on in that area, so it works perfectly for me. Here are the specific changes I made: 

1. Straightened the slash pocket openings
2. Did a line of topstitching along the center-front seam for a little extra detail
3. Traced around a saucer to curve the side seam edges
4. Did a narrow hem around the bottom edges BEFORE sewing together at the side seams (and after sewing the crotch seam)
5. Completed a second row of topstitching around the curved bottom hem because I didn't catch all of it in my stitching the first go and was too lazy to rip/redo. 
6. Bartacked where the side curves came together for extra strength. 

I had originally planned to bind the curved edges with bias binding, but I simply didn't have enough fabric to do so. 

The fabric is a lovely, rustic linen that I upcycled from a large women's skirt I purchased at Value Village for $6 I think. I LOVE shopping the women's dresses and skirts for great linens. I always seem to find the best colors, and I love that the fabric has a little bit of a worn-in look. Plus, it's cheap! This is a great option if you are a smaller size and are creative with your cutting. In this case, I had to cut perpendicular to the grain to get everything to fit. 

I am absolutely in love with these shorts and plan to use the exact same modifications for a few more. I might even add a drawstring to the casing or try the bias binding I previously mentioned. It might even be cool to make a longer, straight-hemmed pair like some James Perse ones I saw recently. 

The top is Simplicity 1071 which I previously blogged here. I love that it can be dressed up or down for lots of different looks (and that it's super comfy!). Shoes are Caswell by Timberland (affiliate link) and are the most comfortable flat sandals I have ever owned!

What do you think? Is your shorts-game ready for summer? 

Drape Drape 3, No. 9 Dress

Ohhhh, I have a treat for you guys today! At least, I think it's a treat because it's pretty different than anything I've sewn before. It's dress No. 9 from the Japanese sewing pattern book, Drape Drape 3. 

I am lucky here in Portland to be able to purchase both English-translated AND actual Japanese pattern books at the local Kinokuniya book store in the back of Uwajimaya Asian grocery which is a bike ride away from my house. Okay, maybe not a bike ride (damn that hill), but it's really, really close. And it also happens to share a parking lot with Mill End fabric store. #WINNING

So I recently went on a Japanese pattern book binge, and the Drape Drape books were high on my list. I ended up purchasing books 2 and 3. This particular dress is from book 3. I have the English-translated versions.

My measurements put me at the low end of the L/XL, so that is what I cut and sewed. However, I felt like it was a little too loose once I was done (probably not helped by the weight of the draped fabric at the hem), so I ran it through the serger again at each of the side seams removing an additional 1/4" from each seam. Next time, I would make the smaller size since the neckline is also a little more open than I'd like. It tends to show my bra strap...but maybe that is a good look?

This dress was actually quite simple and quick to make. The only thing I recommend is basting at pretty much every step, especially before serging! It's easy to get all those little gathers bunched up funny...and no, mine are not perfect. But I am pleased with the outcome either way. 

No, the photo above is not an announcement. I simply have bad posture and a wee mummy tummy. It is, however, a demonstration of what drugstore spray tan looks like on skin as pale as mine. Yet another sunless tanning fail for the books.

The fabric is a lovely rayon knit from Bolt Fabric Boutique here in Portland. I've been getting tons of fabric here lately - such a lovely store and a must-go fabric shopping destination for any of you visiting the area. 

Shoes are a new designer for me - Ethem. They are made in Istanbul, and I purchased this pair at pedX Shoes in Portland.